How Deep Should my Needle Go?

Posted by J Allen on

When working on many client scalps over time, you may start to find that some clients' skin tends to take the pigment a lot better than others.  This is why it is important to calibrate your needle depth based on test areas and knowing the general areas where skin can get thicker and thinner throughout the scalp.

 

 

Today I'm going to
talk to you about skin thickness
throughout the head when we use this
dummy has a example of different areas
that marked for different skin
thicknesses alright so you may recognize
this head from a video that I've used in
before well Sean all the good in bed
techniques to use along the front edge
of the hairline I went ahead and added
these marks to show different regions
and what I used this is just half the
head so I picture the same thing on the
other side but showing my
recommendations on where to be cautious
with depth so right around the front
region here the skin is really really
thin so really just tread lightly all
along here and these aren't really hard
cutoff points you can you know blend
from one to the other this is more
medium depth and then back here is where
you're gonna have trouble with either
one of these staying for different
reasons
this skin back here is thick but it's
not as thick as what's down here so up
here in this scenario you may want to
keep it a medium depth but just move a
little bit slower to ensure everything
stays here in the crown then down here
the skin is really really thick so often
times switch to like an SMP 5 needle and
just go really deep with it and even
then yeah it's trial and error see if
that's going to show at all now this is
not just a blanket rule for for all
heads it's just kind of a general guide
what you should be doing with every
single head is I tell us everybody
that's you know starting out especially
and to myself I mean I tell everybody I
learned something new on every single
head I work on and what that means is
I'm everybody's scalp thickness is
different but they generally follow
these rules of skin thickness so on
somebody you know no matter if no matter
what when you're in this
area you do a few really light points
and see if they're staying if they stay
great if they're not when you wipe away
then you know you're not going deep
enough once you have a good you see that
the little points are staying then you
kind of fill in this area as you
normally would
keeping it light all around here once
you start to work into this area you do
your test again am i going deep enough
and once you determine that you are by
doing like six points wiping away and
doing another six getting slowly deeper
okay now this is what I'm gonna do for
the rest of this section then as you
work your way back here you may do a few
points and it may not stay and you go a
little bit deeper and then you get there.
You basically are calibrating each time
you go to different sections and this
constant re-calibrating of your technique
and depth is the reason why you will be
learning something new on every head you
work on to give you an example I had a
client come out from California
who had really large spots all along his
head I had an entire top of his head
worked on and I thought that the artist
that worked on him had just didn't know
they were new they know they're doing
and they just went too deep and they did
go too deep but it was wrong when I
started working on I realized it was
really really easy to do that you barely
touch this guy's skin it was like dark
it stayed and he was dark complexion but
you can tell it was just staying so well
using my pigment beyond him so yeah I
had to go super light I had to switch to
my smallest SMP1 needle and if I hadn't
you know did the touch calibration where
I figured out what my my depth should be
I would have done the same mistake that
the other artist had done and gone to
deeper on his entire head so I said do i
do my calibration checks as I go and it
ensured that all the points stayed nice
and small so that's an example of how
this can help you out but it should also
give you some comfort if you're new to
it that just as you're gonna have to
learn on each head so does somebody
that's been doing it for 10 years they
still have to learn on each head how to
how to adjust their technique for client

 

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